Qveri? Orange Wine? Drops of God?
When you think of Georgian wine, do you think of qvevri, orange wine or perhaps Drops of God? After attending a tasting and panel discussion at Saperavi Social, I realised those references barely scratch the surface. For a country just a third the size of the UK, Georgia is home to more than 500 indigenous grape varieties, eight wine regions and an astonishing 8,000 years of winemaking history. The tasting challenged many of my assumptions, showing that qvevri is just one of many winemaking techniques and that Georgian wine extends far beyond the amber styles it is best known for in the West. From fresh, Chablis-like whites to elegant skin contact wines and expressive Saperavi reds, the diversity on display was remarkable. Above all, it reinforced how closely Georgian wine is woven into the country’s culture and cuisine, something I can’t wait to experience for myself when I visit in September. See my wine recommendations below.
The Tropical Fresh White blend:
Churi Chinebuli, Krakhuna Mtsvane 2022 £30.00
Regions: Imereti and Kakheti I White
Grapes: Krakhuna 50% Mtsvane 50%
I loved the tropical and dried apricot fruit on this juicy, succulent white blend which had an apricot bonne maman jam ripeness combined with great acidity. The Krakhuna grape brought the levity whilst the Mtsvane provided the body.
The Delicate Amber Wine option:
Qvevris Mze, Kakhuri Mtsvane 2022 £30.00
Region: Kakheti
Grape: Mtsvane 100%
This pale amber wine is made in qveri but only left on the skin for three and a half months and only partial skins. This made it far more delicate and restrained compared to the following amber option which had been left on the stems for 6 months. I enjoyed its peach fruit combined with nutty complexity and its slightly tannic grip which reined in the fruity components beautifully.
3 Expressions of Saperavi – Georgia’s Flagship Grape – all qveri aged
The Artisanal Style:
Wine Thieves, Saperavi 2020 £38.00
Region: Kakheti
This made me view the Saperavi grape in a whole new way. Saperavi is often associated with Malbec in regards to it being a flagship red for Georgia and for its bold character. This single vineyard offering however exuded rosehip perfume and lifted pomegranate and red plum fruit. At only 12% this would be a super summer Beaujolais alternative.
The Rich, Full Bodied Version:
Periani Winery, Saperavi 2022 £38.00
Region:Kakheti
Super fun, bold and bursting with dark plum and blackcurrant fruit. There is a slight raisined element on the finish but this powerful wine carries its concentration and weight fantastically. A superb option for hearty feasts or wintry celebrations.
The Scintillating Sensorial Option:
Gotsa Winery, Saperavi Budeshuri 2020 £40.00
Region: Kartli
Grape: Budeshuri Saperavi (a rarer biotype of Saperavi)
This biodynamic, natural wine is deeper, inkier and more wild in its fruit than a traditional Saperavi. Think more blackcrurrant and dried plum flavours. I adored its velvet texture and was blown away by how it carried its 15% alcohol so deftly! Super impressive.
Bring on September! Cheers, or, as they say in Georgian, “Gaumarjos” (“May you win”)